Reviews

by Paul & Julie Larner

More than four million people visit the historic city of Cambridge every year. Paul and Julie Larner took two wheels to find out why so many people love this charming place

Ask anyone what they know about Cambridge and you can bet your bottom dollar they will reply: the university and bicycles. The city is proud to have the highest levels of cycling in the UK and wherever you are, at whatever time of day, you will see people of all ages on their bikes. And because everything is geared up for cyclists, it is a convenient way to see all the sights this breathtaking little city has to offer.

So, when we were invited to stay at Hotel du Vin and enjoy a sightseeing tour with Cambridge Bike Tours, we snapped up the offer.

Hotel du Vin has established a reputation for being located in interesting buildings. In Birmingham, it occupies the former Eye Hospital; in Edinburgh, it is a former asylum; and the former Tyne Tees Shipping Company headquarters is now the Newcastle upon Tyne hotel.

In Cambridge, it is housed in a former university-owned building and parts date back to medieval times. Situated in Trumpington Street, close to the magnificent Fitzwilliam Museum, it is a little gem with just 41 rooms. When we arrived, we were greeted by the warm and welcoming reception staff and loved the luxury of having our car valet parked. When you are in Cambridge, you don’t need a car.

All the rooms and suites are named after fine wines, such as WolfBlass and Huia and each is   beautifully appointed. Ours was modern, stylish and comfortable, with underfloor heating.

All rooms are equipped with a coffee making machine, tea making facilities, fresh milk and hot chocolate for two.

The bathroom was also very impressive, with double ended bath, walk-in shower and the fabulous complimentary toiletries that you can take with you at the end of your stay. Divine! After we’d settled in we decided to take a stroll and explore the city.

What a jewel Cambridge is. Magnificent architecture, gorgeous colleges, winding cobbled streets, punters gently sailing visitors down the river Cam, afternoon cream teas and homemade ice cream at every corner making this a quintessentially English experience.

Shoppers are also well catered for, with plenty of interesting independent shops sitting comfortably alongside regular High Street names. Naturally, there are exquisite book stores. After wandering the city centre for a few hours, we returned to our city centre base to get ready for dinner.

Pre-dinner drinks were enjoyed in the cellar bar. Romantically illuminated by candlelight, with plenty of rustic sofas to encourage you to unwind. The bar has a relaxed ambience and sets the mood perfectly for a good evening.

While a great location for couples, the hotel caters perfectly for parties, too, with private dining rooms and an impressive library all of which have been decorated with murals by the highly regarded artist, Gary Myatt.

Dinner was taken in the Bistro. Informal, yet inviting and candlelit, the menu is bursting with the finest food Cambridgeshire has to offer, from Colchester oysters to meat, game and fish from River Farm Smokery in Bottisham.

Head chef Jonathan Dean and sous chef Damien Plum offer classic dishes and each one is of extraordinarily good quality. Our parfait maison with red onion jam and toasted brioche was a magnificent starter, while the perfectly pink rack of lamb with Dauphinoise potatoes was mouth-watering.

As cheese lovers, we were excited by the cheese course and enjoyed an array of strong blues and gooey Camembert’s, accompanied by a glass of port – although we were surprised that a hotel of this calibre did not have a 20-year-old vintage on its menu. It was a truly satisfying end to a fabulous meal.

And still we had the cycle tour to look forward to.

The following morning, after a hearty breakfast of Eggs Benedict and Smoked Kippers with Horseradish Mustard and Poached Eggs, we were ready for the second part of our trip.

We had a 10.30am rendezvous with guide Anthony Dean. We met him at nearby green and walked to his house to fetch the bicycles (antique ones were on offer, too, but we declined due to the fear of little suspension after all the wonderful food we had enjoyed at the Hotel du Vin!).

And then we were off on an inspiring two and half hour trip with this sixth generation Cambridge tour guide.

We toured the colleges in awe, admiring the imposing architecture, manicured lawns and took in the history of the place. Anthony was a great guide as he took us around Midsummer Common, Jesus Green, Round Church Trinity Great Gate, Cambridge University Real Tennis Club, The Backs, Senate House and Kings Parade.

The biking was easy and we would really recommend this as a way of discovering the secrets of Cambridge.

Cambridge is a wonderful place to visit and the Hotel Du Vin is a fine quality hotel with a character and ambience of its own. We can highly recommend this as a weekend away; we thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the Hotel du Vin and would encourage all tourists to experience the cycle tour.

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Stylish Ellenborough Park is pure luxury

by Karen Jones

Karen Jones finds the fully refurbished Ellenborough Park in Cheltenham is an utter delight

It dates from the 1500s, but the newly restored Ellenborough Park in Cheltenham places it firmly in the 21st century.

The stunning hotel, which overlooks the celebrated racecourse, has a fascinating history. The former home of the Earl of Ellenborough, Governor General of India, in the 19th century, it has also been a private school for girls and, latterly, a hotel.

Bought by the new owners in 2008, it has been lavished with millions of pounds and is now lovingly restored to a high standard to welcome a new generation of guests.

It is undoubtedly luxurious. It offers fine dining, beautiful rooms, country sports and spa facilities in a very relaxed country setting. Less than two hours from London and an hour or so away from Birmingham, this magnificent English country hotel is perfect for that weekend away or mid week break.

A long, meandering drive leads you to the resplendent Cotswold honey-coloured façade and your car is promptly met by a member of the Ellenborough team. Details such as this make you feel welcome from the moment you arrive.

Personal service is key to Ellenborough Park. There are just 62 bedrooms and suites, including a sumptuous open plan and one split-level suite, which means it is small enough to feel intimate.

As you stroll around the grounds, you cannot help but be impressed by this very beautiful building that has been so sympathetically restored, but inside is just as spectacular.

The interior décor has been designed by Nina Campbell, one of the world’s most renowned interior designers, and is a wonderful combination of quintessentially English with a lovely modern twist. The luxurious furnishings are carefully selected to be both comfortable, yet glamorous in this stately setting. The hotel also features an Indian themed spa, which has taken its inspiration from the travels of its previous owner.

The Spa at Ellenborough Park provides a welcome retreat for hotel guests. If we felt as if we’d left our cares behind as we reached the long driveway to the hotel, we were a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the outside world when we reached the spa. It was a lovely little haven for unwinding, with its hydrotherapy pool, fitness suite and an outdoor swimming pool.

If you want to enjoy the grounds and a more strenuous walk, you can borrow a pair of Hunter wellingtons from the hotel, which keeps a selection, along with Dubarry walking boots and socks. There is no need to bring a cumbersome wardrobe with you.

All the walking and relaxing builds up an appetite and we dined in the beautiful Beaufort Dining Room, with its stunning stained glass windows and charming, medieval feel.

It is here, in this cosy dining room, that the superb à la carte menu, with local ingredients where possible, is served.

Overseen by head chef David Kelman, it is a menu for discerning diners who love fine foods. Starters include sublime Uig Lodge smoked salmon with capers, gherkins, shallots, parsley mayonnaise and a soft boiled quail’s egg; creamed English goat’s curd with apple, celery and shallot salad and caramelised hazelnuts; and home smoked duck breast with spice crumbed foie gras and apple and plum purée.

Each dish was beautifully presented and we took time to savour the wonderful combination of flavours. David is an exceptional talent who leads a team of dedicated chefs who really care about the food they serve.

The starters gave us a wonderful taste of what was to come. We were not disappointed.

Main courses included Chateaubriand of Hereford Cross beef with roast chateau potatoes, seasonal vegetables, béarnaise sauce and a red wine jus; whole grilled Lemon Sole off the bone with vegetables and caper, herb and shallot butter; roast rump of spring lamb with broad beans, buttered leeks and Jersey Royal new potatoes.

But if we had to recommend one dish it would be the wonderful 62 degree cooked loin of Old Spot pork with braised cheek and Savoy cabbage, a sage and onion bon bon and lentils and greengage. Stunning.

Our meal was accompanied by some beautiful wines, chosen by sommelier Tobias Brauweiler. The cellar contains more than 500 varieties, ranging from the reasonably priced to the sublime and the rare.

Cheese lovers can also expect an unparalleled selection after dinner. A total of 14 varieties included soft Cotswold White and Bosworth Ash, Gubbeen smoked and sticky Cornish Blue.

After dinner, guests are invited to retire to the Great Hall where they can take coffee and enjoy a late night game of Scrabble, Trivial Pursuit or any other of the many games available from the hotel.

These are rarefied surroundings to enjoy a board game, but it seemed entirely right. And it was a lovely, gentle way to end our perfect evening.

This was a superb experience and one that we would highly recommend.

Ellenborough Park, Southam Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL52 3NH info@ellenboroughpark.com

www.ellenboroughpark.com Tel: 01242 807 656

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by Karen Jones

Karen Jones enjoys the hospitality and excellent food at the delightful Coach and Horses, a country pub in the heart of the beautiful Cotswolds

Stunning food in the heart of the countryside

Ever since Jon and Jane Kerr arrived at the Coach and Horses in Ganborough, Stow-on-the-Wold in 2010, the emphasis has been on serving superlative food and offering excellent service.

They have certainly made their mark in a little over 12 months.

The carefully-chosen menu comprises a choice of dishes that reflect the seasons and makes use of as much locally-grown produce as possible.

But quality control is just as important. Jon tells me that he only uses the most reputable suppliers for all his ingredients and tries to keep the “food miles” to a minimum.

Their eggs, for example, come from Billy’s free range chickens just down the road, while the bread is made by Toby at Lower Lodge Bakery, again just a few miles away (in fact, Lower Lodge Bakery produces specialty loaves that are unique to The Coach and Horses).

Game is also a big feature on the menu when it is in season and Jon and Jane calls upon the excellent game keeper in Phil, who lives practically a stone’s throw away.

He not only provides them with local estate pheasant, partridge, venison, duck and wood pigeon, he also brews their beer at Donnington Brewery.

The fruit and vegetables are also bought in from nearby suppliers whenever possible. You may well tuck into potatoes, broccoli, sprouts and carrots from Chipping Campden, as well as the nationally-renowned asparagus from the Vale of Evesham in springtime.

While seafood is understandably off the local radar, the menu might well include rainbow trout from the spring fed Donnington trout farm.

As you can see, local matters.

Jon and Jane produce different menus daily to reflect the ever changing availability of produce.

As a traditional English country inn, the Coach and Horses serves the homely staples of English cuisine, but Jon likes to ring the changes with something more modern to entice those with more Mediterranean tastes.

We dined there recently on a cold autumn evening and were immediately encouraged by the very warm atmosphere. With its cosy window seats and inviting open fires, beautiful beamed ceilings and original stone-flagged floors, it was a welcome sight for chilled bones.

As we warmed up and relaxed in the rustic dining room, we perused the menu that was packed with freshly-made, home-cooked dishes.

Despite the drop in temperature outside, the two of us each wanted a light starter that would whet our appetites.

My companion selected the oak smoked salmon that was served with capers, dressed leaf salad, dill and lemon mayonnaise.

It may be a simple dish, but it was superb, thanks to the quality of the ingredients. The smoked salmon was almost buttery and it was complemented by the sharp, juicy capers. It was beautifully presented, too.

I chose the grilled goat’s cheese with sherry roasted tomatoes and balsamic glazed beetroot salad. The creaminess of the cheese was married perfectly with the sharpness and sweetness of the accompanying ingredients. It was absolutely delicious.

For the main course my friend chose the rich risotto of chestnut and sage, which was served with roasted squash, mascarpone purée and sautéed wild mushrooms. This vegetarian delight was cooked perfectly. The rice was just al dente and mascarpone complemented the texture and flavour.

She declared the dish flawless and perfectly balanced. A risotto aficionado, my friend believed it was probably one of the best risottos she had ever eaten.

I ordered the local estate hen partridge breasts stuffed with chestnuts, mushrooms and cranberries, wrapped in Parma ham and served with wilted kale with wholegrain mustard and Malvern sea salt and bubble and squeak.

There was a lot going on, but it was utterly delightful. The partridge was beautifully cooked and the stuffing with its fruity edge complemented the meat.  The wilted kale was spot on for this supper dish and the old favourite of bubble and squeak was taken to new heights of sophistication. I could have eaten a plateful of that alone.

We’d seen the appetising puddings that were leaving the kitchen to appreciative diners and made no hesitation in making a choice. We wanted the apple and butterscotch crumble with vanilla custard. What else could you want for a cold evening? Sweet, buttery, melting in the mouth … need I go on? It was superb.

Should you find yourself anywhere near Stow on the Wold, we’d recommend you book a table at the Coach and Horses. You will not be disappointed.

The Coach & Horses, Ganborough, Stow-on-the-Wold, Gloucestershire, GL56 0QZ

Tel: 01451 830 208 Email: info@coachandhorsesganborough.co.uk

www.coachandhorsesganborough.co.uk

Twitter: @coachhorsesgl56

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The Oak Rooms - Nailcote Hall

by Karen Jones

New chef brings his expertise to Nailcote’s Oak Room

When a talented new chef arrives at an established restaurant, there is a tricky balancing act between maintaining the old favourites and introduce something new and exciting. Thankfully, Neil Peers at the Oak Room Restaurant, Nailcote Hall, has succeeded.

Nailcote Hall Hotel has long held a reputation for excellence when it comes to serving traditional cuisine.

The fine dining restaurant The Oak Room, which is in the 17th century manor part of the country house hotel near Berkswell, is a gorgeous venue.

Opulent and rich, with its dark beams, formal table settings and heavy curtains, it is an intimate dining room that is perfect for special occasions. Despite its formal and traditional appearance, however, it is a relaxed and unpretentious restaurant. Regulars love the flambés, Steak Diane, Crèpes Suzettes and home baked soufflés and you will rarely find an empty table when Sunday lunch is served because its roast beef is difficult to beat.

Since Neil Peers arrived as head chef, he has been careful to keep regular diners happy by maintaining the old favourites, but he has breathed new life into the Oak Room thanks to a new menu he has devised with owner Rick Cressman.

Neil’s flair and expertise is more than apparent.

Alongside the flambés and steaks, Neil has introduced an array of fabulous new dishes that will delight those diners who love the more exotic and modern. We were very keen to see how he has transformed the restaurant.

Before we caught sight of this exciting, new menu, we enjoyed a pre-dinner drink in the aptly named Celebrity Bar.

The walls are adorned with photographs of the many celebrities who have enjoyed the hospitality of Nailcote Hall, including sportsmen and women who have competed in their very successful annual Par 3 British Farmfoods Golf Championship, which is held here every August.

You can’t help but feel at home here. As we enjoyed our drinks, we noticed how warmly the guests are treated by the friendly staff. Many of them have worked there since owner Rick Cressman bought the hotel 20 years ago and the efficiency of Skender and Carole is legendary.

We moved to the dining room and were delighted that the starters gave us an indication of the quality of food we could expect from the Oak Room.

The choice was inventive, with starters including a velouté of cauliflower served with a curry dumpling; a duo of rabbit, with carrots three ways; a fillet of red mullet served with shaved fennel and radish salad, crab cake and tomato essence.

We opted for the superb baked local goat’s cheese, which was served with golden beetroot salad and smoked aubergine purée, and seared king scallops served with confit pork belly and pea purée. It was fabulous. The baked goat’s cheese was cooked to perfection, while with the large scallops were beautifully cooked. In each dish, the combination of flavours was judged very well.

For our main course we were also spoilt for choice. Diners who love the drama of a traditional steak Diane flambéed at their table will be assured to know they can still expect the highest standards of this classic dish that is served with sautéed garlic, wild mushrooms, diced shallots and tomato concasse. For those who prefer simpler food, the whole grilled Cornish sole served with lemon and caper butter is a good choice, while vegetarians are also well catered for with the intriguing sounding roasted globe artichoke served with scented tagliatelle, poached duck egg and choron sauce.

We chose seared fillet of brill, which was served with crayfish ravioli, samphire and saffron foam, and the contra fillet of Aberdeenshire beef that was accompanied by potato terrine, girolles purée, wilted autumn greens and horseradish foam.

We certainly made the right choices. Neil Peers adventurous streak has resulted in dishes that are packed with flavour and unusual combinations.

The desserts are also very tempting. Again, traditionalists can enjoy the very fine crèpes suzettes that are flambéed at your table, but those looking for something lighter could opt for the light strawberry and Champagne Jelly with a creamy vanilla custard, strawberry espuma and served with black pepper meringues.

I’d recommend keeping room for the desserts - especially the dark chocolate tart that is served with caramelized hazelnut ice cream or the rhubarb crumble soufflé, which is one of chef’s specialities and is served with stem ginger ice cream and crème Anglaise. Delicious.

For those of you who have not visited Nailcote Hall’s Oak Room Restaurant in a while, do make a return visit. Neil Peers has created an excellent menu to suit all tastes – from the ultra traditional dishes to more modern plates with some exciting twists.You will not be disappointed.

Oak Room - Nailcote Hall Hotel 02476 466174

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Brockencote Hall Hotel

by Karen Jones

Karen Jones continues to be impressed by the very creative Adam Brown, head chef at Brockencote Hall. He is without doubt a rising star.

Changes are afoot at the fabulous Brockencote Hall Hotel in Worcesteshire – and all of them are tremendously exciting. Recently bought by the Eden Hotel Collection, this award-winning luxurious haven that is set in 70 acres of parkland is set for a major refurbishment in 2012.

Dean Gunston, formerly general manager of The Kings Hotel, Chipping Campden, has taken the reins at Brockencote and he tells me that the award-winning interior designers Nicholas Hollinshead will be in charge of transforming this already incredible venue.

It is already well established as one of the finest luxury hotels and restaurants in the region and it has won a host of awards, including three AA red stars for the levels of comfort and hospitality and two AA rosettes for its outstanding cuisine.

But expect the accolades to continue flying in now it has the exceptional talents of new head chef Adam Brown to enhance its reputation. Formerly at The Arden Hotel in Stratford-upon-Avon, Adam has worked in several Michelin Star establishments, including Mallory Court Hotel with Simon Haigh, Gordon Ramsay’s three Michelin star restaurant in Hospital Road, and two Michelin star Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham.

His career is clearly in the ascendency. He is a dedicated and an incredibly creative chef who brings to the table dishes that are, without exception, conversations pieces.

This is dining on another level. When eating the food, you need to take time to savour the wonderful combination of flavours and textures and marvel at the creativity on the plate.

Together with his team – Adam Reid, sous chef, William Tranta, commis chef, and Tim Jenkins, junior sous chef, Adam Brown has developed enticing menus for Brockencote’s guests that will tempt any palate.

Adam and his team are creating exceptional plates of food and they take obvious pride in showcasing the best local seasonal ingredients available.

For a chef of Adam Brown’s calibre, Brockencote is a fabulous place to seek out ingredients. He and his team are often found foraging the grounds for unusual flora. So far, they have found wild watercress, yarrow, chickweed, ground ivy, acorns, damsons, plums and four different types of apple and all of these super-local ingredients have found their way into the dishes.

It’s a thrilling time to eat there, so we were delighted when we were asked to sample the tasting menu. We’d eaten dishes prepared by Adam Brown before he arrived at Brockencote and our expectations were high.

From the delicate canapés of smoked haddock bon bon, croque monsieur with wild mushrooms and truffle oil, cheese gougere and pork crackers to our final mouthful of dessert, we were treated to an evening of pure culinary excellence.

Our first course was large, hand dived Scottish scallops, which were served with cauliflower purée, raw Romanesco cauliflower, and Granny Smiths apple. The soft sweet scallop combined beautifully with the pepperiness of the cauliflower purée, while the freshness of the raw cauliflower and the acidity of the apple created a perfect balance of flavours. With apple foam, tiny south coast squid that were ideal for a starter and wood sorrel, which had a lemony tang, this was outstanding.

The next course was maple glazed veal sweetbread crispy shoulder with orange and onion purée, cobnuts and chickweed. Served on a black slate platter, this complex dish was utterly divine. The sweetbread had a soft middle and crispy exterior, while the caramelised onion and orange purée, cobnuts, warm orange segments and chickweed gave us an array of complementary and unusual flavours. There was sweet and bitter, crispy and soft, crunchy and smooth. It was an amazing dish that kept us talking for ages.

Our next course was stone bass from the Cornish coast. It was simply fried with butter and lemon juice and served with salt baked celeriac purée, wild water celery velouté, and sea persilane, a seashore forest herb that marries perfectly with the celery and fish. This was a first class combination of textures and flavours.

To follow was the venison, which had been sourced from the local gamekeeper. The meat was perfectly roasted and was complemented by a juniper berry and pepper crust, which worked beautifully with the chicory, parsnip, granola and pennywort. Again, it was superb.

The cheese course came next and we were presented with a choice of some 20 varieties. It was one of the best cheese trolleys I have ever experienced and it was improved further with a serving of their own home made plum chutney.

Our final course was a chocolate extravaganza, a creative selection of chocolate that combined texture and flavour with an outstanding pumpkin and bergamot ice cream, chocolate macaroons, chocolate soil and cocoa sorbet. Talk about ending a meal on a high note! It stopped us in our tracks and before we even began to eat it, we examined it like you would a treasured piece of art. It really was something very special indeed.

The tasting menu has given Adam Brown the chance to show off his incredible skills and there is no doubt that this rising star of the restaurant world will establish himself firmly as one of the most creative chefs in the region – if not nationwide.

Other diners were equally impressed. We heard exclamations of delight as the dishes arrived at the table and many compliments about their dishes.

If you book just one place for dinner in the next month, make it Brockencote Hall. And if you cannot make it in January – make it your New Year’s resolution to visit at some time during 2012.

Brockencote Hall Hotel, Chaddesley Corbett, Nr Kidderminster, Worcs, DY10 4PY 01562 777876

photography by Anthony Higham

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A high old time in NewYork

Simon Hale enjoys the high life in the Big Apple

There is never a dull moment in New York. From the top of the Empire State Building to the deepest recesses of the subway, there is always something to stimulate the senses. It’s no wonder that this is one of the most popular cities on Earth.

But a sightseeing trip to Manhattan can easily tire you out if you are too ambitious, so it’s better to pace yourself and take small bites of the Big Apple at a time.

I had only a few days to explore and was keen to experience the high life of New York, so i started my heady experience at the High Line.

This former freight track, which perches three storeys above a one and half mile stretch of Chelsea with stunning views of the Hudson River, has become one of the city’s most popular parks.

There you will find a wide range of naturalistic plant life and rotating examples of public art, as well as wooden loungers and food vendors. The meandering walkway, the second phase of which opened in June, is perfect for an afternoon stroll.

I continued my walk to the nearby Penn Station subway station and took the E train (all subway rides cost just $2.50) to Fifth Avenue/53rd Street for the Museum of Modern Art.

MoMA has a permanent collection of 135,000 paintings, prints, photographs, drawings, sculptures, films and design objects from the 19th to 21st centuries.

It’s simply too much to take in on one visit, so try to take advantage of a daily gallery talk or focus on one or more of the temporary exhibitions so as not to wear yourself out.

I had already taken steps to reduce fatigue by taking Aer Lingus’s fast-track service from Birmingham with a connecting flight in Dublin, which took advantage of the new US customs and immigration “pre-clearance” service introduced for all American-bound flights in Dublin Airport’s new Terminal 2.

Arriving at JFK with no officialdom to face after the seven and a half hour leg of the flight, I collected my bag, grabbed a cab, and was in my hotel fewer than 90 minutes after landing.

That left enough time in the day to head out from the new ‘luxury space age’ Yotel at Tenth Avenue/West 42nd Street for the shops.

First stop was Saks, the deluxe shopping institution, and it didn’t disappoint with its fabulous designer ranges and impeccable customer service.

A pair of panther-black high-heeled Pradas made their way into my friend’s shopping bag, while my lucky break was a pair of Adam Derrick formal office shoes, which had a 55 per cent discount.

But for best designer label bargains – if you don’t mind joining the feeding frenzy – head south to the Century 21 department store, which faces the site of the former World Trade Center. I managed to snap up French Connection T-shirts normally priced at $68 (£43) for just $29 (£18).

All this bargain hunting creates a thirst, so we headed to the popular new roof-top Birreria at Eataly on Fifth Avenue and 23rd Street for a much-deserved drink.

It is so popular, though, that we had to wait half an hour to be called up in the lift, by which time we’d developed an almost unquenchable thirst. This was satisfied with generous measures of Moretti beer that we imbibed against a dazzling backdrop of neon-lit skyscrapers.

We decided to continue our high life and headed to the Top of the Rock to get the best views of lower Manhattan and Central Park.  The ear-popping ascent to the top of the Rockefeller Center is even more numbing when you look up at the vertical tunnel through the glass roof as the lift ascends through 67 floors in just 43 seconds.

The vista from the observation deck, which was first opened to the public in 1933 and designed in art deco style to look like the deck of a grand ocean liner, was spectacular.

We then discovered another great way to see much of New York.

The Circle Line boat that sails twice daily from pier 83 on the Hudson River on a semicircle cruise around Manhattan provides a fascinating introduction to the city and  its landmarks, including the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island and Brooklyn Bridge.

If you have a chance, join the city’s official guided tours. One of the best must be the free one-and-a-half-hour Friday lunchtime tour of Grand Central Station with Justin Ferate, whose fame is such that New York Magazine has named him as one of the city’s 50 Essential Secrets.

Justin takes you to the most interesting locations in this marble palace, like the “whispering gallery” where a whisper becomes a shout. Test this for yourself having a friend whisper to you from the opposite end of the large arched entryway. You may be surprised at what you hear!

The basement of Grand Central is full of independent restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy an inexpensive lunch, but we retreated to one of New York’s most select cocktail bars located off the west balcony.

The Campbell Apartment was formerly the office of 1920s railroad tycoon John W Campbell, who designed it in the style of a galleried 13th century Florentine great hall.

It is renowned for its cocktails from the 20s and 30s, like Prohibition Punch, a drink that was designed to mask the taste of alcohol. It may have cost $15, but it was worth every drop.

The sophisticated ambience is maintained with a smart dress code and a waiting list for a table, so it’s the ideal place for wearing those new clothes you just bought and enjoying one final taste of the high life before heading back to England.

GETTING THERE

Aer Lingus flies from Birmingham to New York (JFK) via Dublin daily from Monday to Saturday. The airline is offering a lead-in fare of £229 (one way) including taxes and charges for travel between November 1, 2011 and March 31, 2012. For more fare information, visit www.aerlingus.com

GETTING BY

If you are planning to visit all or most of the main attractions, it’s worth paying $79 (£49) for a New York CityPASS. It provides a saving of 50 per cent on regular admission rates and is valid for nine consecutive days. The attractions include the Empire State Building, American Museum of Natural History, The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), The Metropolitan Museum of Art, either the Guggenheim Museum or Top of the Rock, and either the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island or a Circle Line Cruise. For more details, visit citypass.com

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The Lazy Cow By Karen Jones

The Lazy Cow opened in November 2010 after a £1.5 million makeover and very quickly gained a reputation for excellence.

In the eight months it has been open, we have eaten there on many occasions, but on our last visit decided to stay overnight to savour the whole experience.

The original concept was devised by Ross Sanders who, after travelling in America, wanted to replicate not only the great steak houses of the USA, but also the level and standard of service he had received.

It’s only when you spend a little time here that you fully appreciate the attention to detail. Fabulous quirky interior design features include milk bottles as lights, cow hides on the wall and even cow hide on the chairs and cushions in the bedroom.

It works.

The interior reflects the whole Lazy Cow theme, but it has been judged very well because it does not feel like a pastiche or, worse, come across as plain silly.

This is an emerging, yet very strong, brand, which could yet be rolled out across the country. The second Lazy Cow opened in Salisbury recently and plans are afoot for more.

The Warwick hotel is situated just a few minutes from Warwick Castle and racecourse, making it ideally placed for a relaxing weekend retreat.

Each of the 16 individually styled guestrooms and suites is stylishly appointed, thanks to interior designer Adam Tibbetts, who has really worked his magic.

We stayed in room 10, a Moo Room, which may not suit vegetarians what with its cow skin on the chairs, mirrors and bed base. But don’t worry if you are vegetarian, there are many other bedrooms that are equally stunning – including a tranquil woodland theme – that don’t rely on cowhide or leather.

The Moo Room is incredibly stylish and beautifully done. Not short of gadgets, there were two widescreen TVs, one in the bedroom and one in the lounge area and a Nespresso coffee machine. To complete the luxurious experience, there were White Company toiletries, Tea Pigs teabags, chocolates, newspapers, magazines and a complimentary bottle of wine.

When we arrived early evening, the place was absolutely buzzing. Although a warm evening, we chose to eat in the already very busy restaurant. With its theatre kitchen, we relaxed into a pre-dinner drink and took time to absorb the new menu, launched at the end of July.

The starter menu offers a fabulous selection, including home cured salmon, crab cakes, one pound of wings, salt and pepper squid, smoked chicken and foie gras terrine, and beef or tuna carpaccio.

I chose the Chinatown wraps. They were beautifully presented on a long wooden board, which was divided into three sections, one for lettuce, another for a mixture of red peppers, carrots and white cabbage and a final one for spiced chicken. They were absolutely delicious, but thank goodness for the finger bowl that came with this dish!

My companion had the scallops, which are delivered fresh every day from the Really Interesting Crab Company in Cornwall. Plump, pan-fried and served with sautéed Girolle mushrooms, creamed spinach and lazy cow gravy, these were just divine.

For our main course we were totally spoilt for choice. The specials offered fresh English lobster, a whole dressed Cornish crab, sticky beef with Shanghai noodles or a selection of grills, salads and steaks. Vegetarians were also well catered-for.

All very tempting, but we chose the fillet steak with a combination of green peppercorn and bloody Mary sauces. Served with homemade chips and creamed spinach, it was absolutely delicious.

The Lazy Cow’s obsession to find the best butcher in the land has clearly paid off: O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge, a family business that was established in 1789. It has also invested in a Josper Oven that seals the steaks at temperatures in excess of 400C. This was certainly a worthwhile investment as the steak was meltingly good.

My partner chose to have the whole dressed Cornish crab, which was an absolute stunner. Served on a bed of crushed ice, it was a real beast of the sea and a talking point for many of the diners as they saw it brought to the table.

For pudding we tried the crème brûlée and Key Lime Pie, although we were also encouraged to taste the lime jelly and blackcurrant sorbet. All were absolutely delicious.

The new chef, Ben Rathbone, who has been chef at many fabulous restaurants in the area, is clearly a talent, adding his own touches to the Lazy Cow ethos.

The whole experience was a triumph. New manager Paul Brown is running a very slick operation here. The staff clearly enjoy their jobs, too, and each one was friendly and incredibly efficient.

We left feeling very spoilt.

The Lazy Cow has definitely brought something special to Warwick –and word has spread far and wide, for it has already been listed in a Sunday Times Hotlist for 2011.

That, I think, speaks volumes.

www.thelazycowwarwick.co.uk

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A weekend away at The George hotel in Shipston on Stour

The George, in Shipston-on-Stour, is perfectly situated on the edge of the Cotswolds. With delightful villages like Chipping Campden and Broadway just a short drive away from this old market town, this is a delightful spot to wile away a couple of days.

We arrived at this smart boutique hotel on a Friday evening and found ourselves, rather fortuitously, in time for Champagne Happy Hour. Every Friday, between 5.30pm -7.30pm, guests can partake in a bottle of house Champagne and tapas for £22 or enjoy a jug of Pimms for £12.50.

Not surprisingly, there was a fabulous atmosphere as many people had come to enjoy an early evening drink. Adding to this, the great service we received from the staff; we quickly found ourselves unwinding from the week and thoroughly enjoying our pre-dinner drinks.

Beforehand, however, we were shown to our room by the very friendly Luke. Each of the16 bedrooms in the hotel is named after a favourite food and ours was named Strawberry with a fabulous strawberry headboard.. A king-sized bed and crisp linen dominated the room, where there was a flat-screen TV, an iPod dock and free wi-fi access.

However much as we liked the relaxing nature of the room, it was a mild summer’s evening and we wanted to take advantage of the good weather and a glass or two of Champagne on the decking.

The George is certainly popular with the locals. As we took our table, after looking at the à la carte menu, we realised that all the tables were booked. It didn’t take us long to find out why.

The very efficient and friendly General Manager, Heidi advised us on her ideal choice, but admitted that whatever we ordered, we wouldn’t be disappointed. Our mouths watered.

We selected the pan seared scallops with grilled chorizo and sweetcorn purée and the crab cocktail with guacamole and a tomato relish to start.

The flavours of each starter complemented each other beautifully. The combination of chorizo and sweetcorn purée with the scallops was superb and the crab starter was a very generous portion, served beautifully in a large round glass

Our starters left us eagerly anticipating what was to follow.

The mains offered wonderful options such as roasted rump of Cotswold lamb served with minted parmentier potatoes and red wine sauce, supreme of corn-fed chicken with spring vegetables, and red onion and goats cheese tart tatin served with baby leaves and balsamic dressing.

My partner chose to have the chargrilled 28-day aged Hereford rib eye steak served with grilled tomato, field mushrooms and pont neuf potatoes. This dish was served with a selection of sauces, from red wine to peppercorn, blue cheese or garlic butter. The steak was beautifully cooked and very tender and an excellent choice.

I chose to have the pan fried  fillet of bream with roasted fennel , watercress and sauce vierge. This was a fabulous dish with the addition of capers and tomatoes. The fish is brought in fresh three times a week and this was beautifully fresh.

To accompany our meal we chose a sauvignon blanc from the “great” list and a rioja reserva Marques de Riscal, a truly world class wine from the top notch list, a list for those who want to try something very special.

Perhaps, like us, you would think that desserts are not required after such a satisfying meal. There were tempting dishes such as lemon meringue cheesecake or chocolate crème caramel, but we chose a selection of cheeses and a warm pecan and maple tart served with vanilla ice cream. The pecan pie was delicious, beautifully presented with a very light crisp pastry.

The cheese selection was equally impressive with a selection of five cheeses, including  a lovely smoked applewood, a Hereford hop and a white stilton, served with celery, chutney and water biscuits.

Chef James Kettle is working his magic here. The former Swinfen Hall chef is absolutely passionate about food and you can tell.

The evening was completed with coffee in the library – a cosy bolthole with antique leather chairs and quirky leopard-skin stools. We enjoyed coffee and liqueurs and relaxed into this wonderful room, which is full of old photographs and books, before enjoying a very comfortable night’s sleep.

The following morning, we treated ourselves to a hearty breakfast before exploring the Cotswold villages nearby. We were again spoilt for choice; there were grilled kippers, smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, porridge or a continental breakfast of pastries, cereals and yoghurts, but we opted for the eggs royale, which was a great start to the day.

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at The George – the ambience, the friendly staff, the more-than-comfortable rooms and the superb food all add up to a great experience that we would recommend highly to anyone.

www.georgehotelshipston.com

Tel: 01608 661453

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The Stag by Alice Perrey

A local pub and restaurant The Stag AT Offchurch deserves every one of its accolades, says Alice Perrey

As you drive up The Stag at Offchurch certainly looks inviting.

A 16th century thatched pub in the historic village of Offchurch, this is a one-of-a-kind country inn on the outskirts of Leamington Spa.

It is part of the Classic Developments Gastro Pub Company that also owns the popular Moorings in the town.

The two pubs are very different in style, but what they do share, however, is a commitment to high quality food.

Offchurch is an excellent area for walking and ramblers and dog walkers are certainly welcomed – even the car park makes mention to ramblers parking. I can imagine that come the winter, with the log fires burning, this would be a most welcome retreat.

From the outside it is in true chocolate box style, but inside The Stag is very modern without losing anything of the cosiness you would expect. The informal lounge is separated from the two restaurants, so it retains the atmosphere of a traditional pub.

We enjoyed drinks in the bar while looking at the menu and it was soon clear why The Stag had received so many accolades: National Food Pub of the Year 2010; Les Routiers Newcomer of the Year 2011; Publican Finalist 2011.

I believed we were in for some seriously good food as on a Tuesday evening, this was a very busy pub and there was already a queue of diners checking in for their dinner reservations.

The huge effort that Charles Harris, the general manager, and the head chef Nigel Brown have invested in The Stag is paying off great dividends and it seems to be going down well with the locals too.

They are ably assisted by the attentive manageress Lizzie and her team of young enthusiastic staff, all of whom were eager to please and were very informed when asked about the menus.

Our sharing platter of fruits de mer was laden with delicious kiln smoked salmon, red wine and shallot pickled clams, calamari in light batter and a delicious taramasalata. This was a true celebration of the sea and utterly mouth-watering; it was the perfect starter to share.

This was followed by pan fried grey mullet fillet, which was served with herb and shallot crushed potato and wilted sea beets with a Champagne butter sauce.  This was a very attractive dish and the presentation was superb.

The fish was sweet with a firm flesh and it contrasted beautifully with the nuttiness of the skin. The sea beets and the lovely creamy sauce were the perfect foil for the fish.

My partner ordered the braised pig’s cheek with herb and shallot potato cake, cauliflower purée and red wine jus. If, like me, you had never considered eating pig’s cheek then think again.They were slowly braised, which meant they were incredibly tender and succulent, and the intense red wine jus reduction was highly recommended by Harry.

I constantly struggle to make room for a dessert, but armed with the knowledge that all the puddings are homemade, it would have been rude not to try them.

It was almost impossible to choose, but we opted to share a creamy pannacotta, which was served with fresh, sweet English strawberries and a tart berry sauce that cut through the indulgently creamy pudding.  Accompanied by a crisp homemade shortbread, it really was delicious.

I can’t recommend The Stag highly enough.

There is an excellent selection of vegetarian, meat, and fish dishes on the menu and there is a definite buzz about the place. It also has the added advantage of good outside space if the sun is shining.

Traditional country village pub offering seasonal Anglo/French Cuisine

Opening hours

Monday - Saturday 12 noon - 11 pm

Sunday 12 noon - 10.30 pm

Welsh Road, Offchurch, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire CV33 9AQ. Tel: 01926 425801

www.thestagatoffchurch.com email: info@thestagatoffchurch.com

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Leica D-LUX 5 by Andrew Perry

£644 inc VAT

At around £650, the Leica D-Lux 5 compact certainly isn’t cheap. But, with a classy appearance, superior build quality and an impressive spec list, the D-Lux 5 gets you that famous ‘red dot’ without forking  out thousands of pounds on one of the German company’s top end system cameras.

Up-to-date features, meet classic old-school design, the Leica D-LUX 5 Digital Camera is a compact 10.1MP digital camera with an extemely fast f/2-3.3 DC Vario-Summicron 24-90mm lens that is pure Leica, on the right are just a few of the images we were able to capture during our time with the camera.

The Leica D-Lux 5 is a high-end bridge camera that boasts all the manual features that a keen photographer will be looking for. It also has all the modern conveniences, like face detection and autofocus tracking metering modes, scene modes (Portrait, Scenery, Panorama Assist, Sports, Night Portrait, Food, Party, Candlelight, Sunset, Baby 1 and 2, Pet, Beach, Snow, Color modes), 4:3, 3:2, 16:9, and 1:1 formats, a built-in flash plus a hot-shoe for an optional Leica flash, and a macro function that focuses down to a centimeter and the inclusion of the Adobe Photoshop Lightroom software, everything you need to get you started.

If you’re someone who already uses the company’s products, it is as good as you’d expect, and it will make a good portable alternative to an existing dSLR, and if you don’t have the funds for, say, an M9, then the D-Lux 5 provides a taste of Leica for much less cash.

It is an absolutely superb camera and a perfect joy to use. It is expensive but if you do decide to purchase then we would be very, very surprised if you were at all disappointed

This will be a camera you will treasure, and always get a buzz from everytime you take it out.

Product Highlights

•  Super-Fast F/2.0 Lens  •  10.1MP  •  O.I.S. Image Stabilization

•  3” LCD Display  •  Classic Leica Design  •  720p HD Video

•  Sensitivity Up to 12800 ISO  •  24-90mm (Equivalent) 3.8x Zoom Lens

Leica Store Mayfair, 34 Bruton  Place, London W1J 6NR

Tel: 0207 629 1351 Fax: 0207 499 9895

welcome@leica-storemayfair.co.uk

www.leica-storemayfair.co.uk

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